What are sustainable fabrics?

This is the million dollar question with a very complicated answer. There are several important factors that make up a truly sustainable fabric:

• Material type, including its sourcing
• The dyeing and finishing processes used
• Labor practices

These are important things to consider because of the huge environmental and ethical impacts created by the production process of these materials. The fashion industry is responsible for almost 10% of global emissions and is on pace to double by 2030. Americans toss an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste, or 2,150 pieces of clothing per second, into landfills every year. And both humans and animals alike are exploited within the industry.

The life cycle of fabric, source:

Types of fabric

The simplest way to classify types of fabric is by dividing them into two groups: natural fibers and man-made, with an additional group that’s a hybrid of both.

Natural fibers

Natural fibers themselves are ultimately the most sustainable fabrics because they are renewable and biodegradable; however, it is much more complicated than that. The eco-friendliness of natural fibers is further determined by the manner in which their parent crops are grown, processed, and produced. Concerns include land and water requirements and use of chemicals like fertilizers and pesticides. Animal-based fibers create their own set of potential issues, namely ethical treatment and environmental impacts.

Cellulose is a common word you will see when it comes to natural plant-based fabrics. This substance is a polysaccharide (a carbohydrate compound) that is obtained from plant fibers, most commonly wood pulp. Cellulose from a plant such as bamboo or cotton can be used to produce natural, sustainable clothing. When manufacturers start adding large amounts of chemicals, it becomes rayon or viscose, which is becomes a semi-synthetic material.

Let’s review the most common types of natural fabric you will encounter and what to look for when purchasing.

Bamboo is not a tree but a grass that is the fastest growing plant on Earth; some varieties can grow approximately two inches per hour, possibly reaching 60 feet in only 3 months! And it doesn’t require pesticides or fertilizers to do so. It also doesn’t require irrigation, as it is able to survive on rainfall alone. Bamboo also requires less land degradation compared to logging, and improves soil quality and erosion. A bamboo forest absorbs five times more carbon and produces 35% more oxygen than a similar stand of trees.

These qualities make it a very sustainable material, but with some caveats. When grown and manufactured properly, bamboo fabric is one of the most eco-friendly fabrics available. So what is the best practice?

Bamboo used for building materials and housewares undergoes a much more straightforward mechanical process to produce. With FSC or similar certification, bamboo products are among the most sustainable options available. Transforming bamboo fibers into fabric is another story. These fibers can be processed one one of two ways: mechanically or chemically. Is it surprising to know that the method that is worse for the environment is also the one most commonly used?

Bamboo processing

According to FTC regulations, “unless a product is made directly with bamboo fiber — often called “mechanically processed bamboo” — it can’t be called bamboo.” This agency has been cracking down on product labeling in recent years.

“The truth is, most ‘bamboo’ textile products, if not all, really are rayon, which typically is made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air. While different plants, including bamboo, can be used as a source material to create rayon, there’s no trace of the original plant in the finished rayon product.”

Federal Trade Commission

Mechanical processing is done in a similar fashion as flax or hemp, resulting in a fabric sometimes referred to as bamboo linen. Unfortunately, this type of production is rare, as it is costly and time-consuming, and results in a coarser fabric.

This leaves you with bamboo viscose or rayon which, as mentioned, is heavily processed with toxic chemicals. The National Resource Defense Council recommends Lyocell processed rayon fibers made from bamboo instead. More on lyocell in the semi-synthetic section below.

An additional consideration with bamboo products is its carbon footprint from shipping. Generally, 80% of bamboo forests are in Asia, 10% in Africa, and 10% in Latin America. Some companies offset this by donating to carbon positive projects.

Coir is separated from the husks of coconuts by soaking them in water, a process called retting. Most of the world’s coir is supplied by India and Sri Lanka. Its lightweight, strong, and elastic qualities lead to it having the second largest market share of plant-based fibers after cotton, at around 20%.

There is not a wide variety of data concerning pesticide use in coconut production, although there are some studies that have found pesticide residues in coconut oil and water.

Coir is often used to produce home textiles such as floor mats, brushes, and mattresses.

Cotton has many benefits: it’s easy to clean, soft, durable, lightweight, breathable, and absorbent. This natural material is cheap to produce and is biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable. It’s easy to see why cotton accounted for 22% of all fiber production in 2021 and is the most abundant non-food crop grown. On the surface, this versatile natural plant fiber seems like it might be one of the best sustainable options. However, there is an astronomical amount of conflicting data or misinformation about cotton, and the lack of transparency among farmers or producers complicates the issue.

World’s dirtiest crop?

Cotton as the “world’s dirtiest crop” because of reportedly high use of fertilizers and pesticides. Just how much of these chemicals are being used is anybody’s guess, as it seems every organization has its own set of numbers. Every farm may operate differently and regulations differ between countries. The biggest gaps are related to pesticide use, according to Forbes, because pesticide usage data is either not reported, or privately owned, and costs an unfeasible amount of money to access for single stakeholders.  

I’ve come across claims that anywhere from 16 to 25% of the world’s insecticides are used on cotton. According to the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), cotton accounted for 4.71% of all the pesticides and 10.24% of all insecticides sold globally in 2019. Note this data is for chemicals “sold” and not “used.”

As for cotton produced in the United States, it is very likely that these chemicals have been used. The USDA’s National
Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) conducted a 2019 Agricultural Chemical Use Survey. During that planting year, cotton farmers applied nitrogen fertilizer to 86% of planted acres. Phosphate was used on 61%, potash 48%, and sulfur 41%.

The NASS found herbicides were the most extensively utilized chemicals, with application to 93% of planted acres. Glyphosphate, the controversial chemical found in Roundup, was the top choice and continues to grow in usage each year. Other chemicals such as fungicides were applied to 65% of planted acres, while insecticides were used 56% of the time.

Effects of heavy fertilizer and pesticide use

Synthetic fertilizers, which are widely used to increase production, result in water contamination and significant greenhouse gas emissions. The argument with using such large amounts of fertilizers is that without it, crop yield is significantly lower and the cotton industry wouldn’t be able to keep up with the demand. Fast fashion, anyone?

Pesticides contaminate the soil as well as ground and surface water, and drift onto nearby crops. According to the Center for Biological Diversity, “As little as 0.1% of an applied pesticide interacts with its targeted weed or pest. The remainder contaminates the soil, air and water and can have significant impacts throughout the ecosystem. Pesticides can also linger in the soil for years or decades after they are applied, continuing to harm soil health.” Pesticides, including the aforementioned glyphosate, have been associated with numerous adverse health effects.

Water consumption

Cotton is also considered a thirsty crop. Its cultivation accounts for about 69% of the textiles industry’s fiber production water footprint. It is estimated that around 1,800 gallons of water is needed to grow enough cotton to produce just one pair of jeans.

The production of cotton fabric is also a water intensive process. Producing one T-shirt uses 2,700 liters of water, and a single kilogram of cotton fiber requires more than 20,000 liters of water to produce. Dyeing the fabric consumes 5 trillion liters of water per year across the planet. Not great considering many areas of the world are experiencing longstanding drought.

Types of cotton

There are two main species of cotton: upland cotton and extra-long staple cotton. The main difference between species is fiber length.

Upland cotton comprises the vast majority–97%— of production.

Extra-long staple varieties of cotton are Egyptian, Turkish, and in the United States, Pima cotton. These longer fibers are valued for their strength, softness, and color retention. They are also easier to recycle afterlife due to their longer fibers.

cotton farmin

ABRAPA, BASF e3, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cleaner Cotton [discontinued in 2020], Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, Field to Market, ISCC, myBMP, Organic Cotton, Recycled Cotton, REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton (ROC™), In-Conversion Cotton (“Transitional” in the US), and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

Is organic cotton more sustainable?

Organic cotton accounts for only 1% of all cotton grown. There are many misleading claims made when comparing organic cotton to conventionally grown. One of the biggest inaccuracies is that organic cotton uses 91% less water.

why use organic

• No use of synthetic chemicals
• 91% lower water consumption
• 62% lower energy demand
• 46% lower CO2-emissions
• 26% lower soil erosion

Hemp is one of the oldest fibers in human history. It is categorized as a bast fabric, which means it comes from the stem of a plant; in this case cannabis sativa. Hemp contains only 0.3% THC, while recreational marijuana usually has 15-25%. Yet, farming of this crop was restricted in the U.S. through much of the 20th century until October 2019, and is still only legal to grow in 37 states.

These regulations have resulted in hemp fabric being highly underutilized, despite being one of the most environmentally friendly natural fibers in the world, and one of the most versatile.

• Hemp plants have carbon sequestration abilities—so much that they are carbon negative
• Does not require fertilizer, additional irrigation, herbicides, or pesticides and has a noticeable resistance to rodents, fungus, and many types of weeds
• Improves soil structure and nutrition, can absorb pollutants from the soil
• Adapts easily to different climates, resulting in a wide geographical range of cultivation
• Short cropping period (70–90 days) and has a lower chance of crop failure than flax

Compared to cotton, hemp:

• cultivation requires about 77.6% less cost in fertilization, seeds, field operation, and irrigation costs than cotton
• requires 50% less water
• shows many unique properties that differ from other natural fibers by their aseptic properties, high absorbency, protection against UV radiation, resistance to mold and mildew, and free from allergenic effect 
• has a very high yield: an acre of hemp can produce 2-3 times more fiber than an acre of cotton.
• is strong, longer, more absorbent, and more resistant than cotton fibers

Hemp is processed chemically or mechanically, much like bamboo. And as with bamboo, mechanical production is best, but is more time-consuming and expensive. Organic is also the better choice, of course.

Jute is a strong, environmentally friendly fiber commonly used to make twines, ropes, and mats but also can also be used for home
textiles such as curtains and carpets. It’s one of the cheapest natural fibers and the most widely used globally after cotton.

Jute fabric is strong, durable, and eco-friendly, with a natural look and feel. It has high density, heat resistance, and moisture retention. It’s mainly composed of cellulose and lignin, components of plant and wood fiber.

Farmers collect jute fiber from the bast or skin of the jute plant. There are many different types of jute fibers made from different botanical varieties of jute.

Jute plants require lots of rainfall, a warm and humid climate and take about 120 days to grow from April to August. They typically grow in tropical lowland areas with humidity above 60% without pesticides or fertilizers.

Linen is an ancient natural fiber made from the flax plant, used long before cotton. Flax can grow in poor-quality soil and usually does not require any chemical pesticides. Its cultivation does not require a lot of irrigation and in many cases grows on natural rainfall alone. Linen production uses the whole flax plant, leaving no waste. These qualities, in addition to being fully biodegradable and easily recycled, makes it one of the most sustainable fabrics in the world.

85% of flax is grown in Europe. The downside is that it tends to be expensive because it’s labor intensive hard to weave. It is great sustainable fabric choice since it is extremely durable and long-lasting.

Animal-based materials

Down

Leather

Silk

About 75% of silk is produced in China, with the majority of the remainder made in India.

how is silk made, is silk sustainable, sustainable silk

Silkworms are killed in boiling water during their pupal stage to preserve material quality, thread length, and value. Whereas in nature, silkworms chew their way out of their cocoon when they become adults.

Wool

Angora

Angora wool comes from any of the four species of Angora rabbit. This wool has been the center of animal cruelty claims. In 2013, PETA released a graphic video of these rabbits taken from cramped, filthy cages to have their fur ripped off their body, leaving a bloody mess behind. (I’m only repeating a summary of the video, as I don’t want to watch it myself.) This resulted in many designers removing Angora from their clothing lines.

At least 90% of Angora comes from China, which does not have any animal welfare laws. It is possible to source ethical Angora, but it takes some diligence and research to find companies that source their angora wool from small farms that raise the animals in an ethical, humane manner. Because of this, it might be best to stay away from this type of wool.

Angora rabbits do rely on regular grooming and shearing to maintain their health and prevent matting of their coat. Angoras molt several times a year, and this is when the wool should be gathered. Harvesting Angora involves plucking or shearing the rabbits on Angora farms. Plucking is not what it sounds like; it is essentially combing out the loose/shedding hairs from the undercoat as the rabbit is molting. However, this is a very time consuming process so some farmers resort to shearing.

Camel hair

Camel hair comes from the Bactrian camel, and according to Britannica:

“The hair is not usually gathered by shearing or plucking; it is most often collected as the animal sheds its coat. Both the outer coat and the undercoat are shed at the same time, and combing, frequently by machine, separates the desirable down from the coarse outer hairs.”

This process takes place each spring, which yields about five pounds of wool per camel. China is the world’s largest supplier of camel hair, followed by Mongolia.

Cashmere

Less common natural fibers

Abaca

Abaca, also called Manila hemp, is created from the fibers of the abaca tree, which belongs to the banana family. This plant is native to the Philippines, where it has been handwoven for generations. Traditionally it has been dyed with plant-based natural colors.

An extremely versatile fabric, abaca is commonly used in the Philippines and other eastern countries for clothing, footwear, accessories, and home textiles. It is so durable that it is also used for rope, cords, and strings, and even rigging on ships.

This fabric has been branded Bananatex.

Kapok

You may not have heard of this fiber that is described as having the smoothness of silk and the fluffiness of cotton. Kapok is grown on fast-growing trees that can grow up to 13 feet each year until reaching a height around 164 feet.

Kapok is a vegan alternative to down and is commonly used to fill pillows, bedding, and upholstery. The fiber is too brittle to be spun into fabric so it must be blended with other materials. Alone, it is hypoallergenic and grown pesticide-free.

Pineapple Leaves

Pineapple is one of the most productive tropical fruit in the world; one acre of pineapple plantation can produce 20,000 fruits every 15 months.

Normally, the leaves are burned or left to rot after harvest of the fruit. The company Ananas Anam devised a viable alternative to this practice by developing a method of extracting cellulose from these leaves to create Piñatex, an animal-free alternative to leather. By utilizing a byproduct of an already existing fruit industry, no additional land, water, or pesticides are needed to create this product. This also allows farmers to generate additional income by selling the leaves suitable for fiber production.

Seaweed

SeaCell is a branding of lyocell fiber that uses brown algae from the ocean in its production. The resulting fabric contains 19% of this algae and 81% lyocell. (Read more on lyocell below.)

The fabric is home compostable, verified by a TUV Austria certification, and has OEKO-TEX certifications as well. There are many claims made of the health benefits of wearing this clothing, none of which has any scientific backing. But with sustainable sourcing of this plentiful plant, along with a closed loop production system, it is a very promising sustainable fabric.

Yak wool

Yak wool is being utilized more as a more sustainable alternative to cashmere. This fiber is collected from yaks in a similar method used for cashmere, and is said to be comparable in softness and warmth, which is not surprising since yaks can survive at temperatures as low as -40 degrees Celsius. However, the fibers are darker and more coarse, making them more difficult to dye.

This large animal’s grazing habits are kinder on the ecosystem than cashmere goats, who uproot plants as they eat. In contrast, yaks only consume the leaves, making it easier for pastures to regrow. They also graze at a higher altitude, not contributing to the degradation of grasslands where the goats feed.

---

Semi-synthetic Fabrics (Regenerated cellulosic fibers)

Rayon

Rayon is a broad term that covers fabrics formed with cellulose from a plant source. This can be any type of plant, such as bamboo, but rayon most comes from wood pulp, typically beech, pine, or eucalyptus. Being plant-based, this material is technically biodegradable, but undergoes such a chemically intensive process to transform into a fabric that it is considered semi-synthetic. 

There are three types of rayon: Viscose, Modal, and Lyocell.

Viscose

Rayon viscose was developed as a cheaper alternative to silk. It is cheap to produce, therefore use is very widespread. If a clothing tag simply lists ‘rayon,’ it is viscose.

Viscose is the least environmentally friendly type of rayon because it is processed with very high concentrations of chemicals. The viscose rayon industry has a long history of endangering worker health and causing significant environmental pollution, the main culprits being carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid. In fact, rayon factories created so much pollution through wastewater that the EPA caused them to eventually shut down, and rayon is no longer produced in the United States.

Rayon fibers actually contribute to almost 60% of the fibers found in the deep ocean areas of contamination.

In addition, the wood harvested for viscose often does not come from sustainably managed forests. It is estimated that 30% of the rayon and viscose going into clothing is sourced from endangered and ancient forests. The production of viscose also uses a large amount of water.

Modal

Modal is second generation rayon fabric made from beech tree pulp. The fabric is soft, stretchy, and stronger than viscose. There is a long list of benefits: it is breathable and moisture wicking, making it ideal for workout wear; it also drapes well, doesn’t pill, retains color well, resists shrinking, doesn’t crease, and is biodegradable. This fabric is processed much like rayon, with some key differences. These variations usually include less chemical use, but the sustainability of modal is determine by individual manufacturer processes.

The gold standard for sustainable modal, as well as lyocell, is produced by the Austrian company Lenzing AG, based in a city of the same name. This company produces all three types of rayon, branded as TENCEL, with the most eco-friendly practices of any other in the rayon market. Their factories utilized renewable energy. Trees are sourced from FSC-certified forests, which don’t require herbicides and pesticides. The yield of fibers from this process produces up to ten times more content than what can be taken from the typical cotton field. It also requires less than 20 times less water than cotton.

The dyeing process Lenzing employs uses a spin-dyeing process, which results in significantly less pollution than conventional dyeing. One study found that this uses 50% less energy and has a 60% lower carbon footprint, in addition to requring only half the water.

Lyocell

The third generation rayon is lyocell, created with cellulose from eucalyptus wood pulp. Eucalyptus trees grow quickly, without additional irrigation or pesticides, on land no longer fit for food or other uses.

Recycled fabrics can also be used in lyocell production.

Lyocell fabric has the same qualities as modal, and is the strongest of the rayon fabrics. It is also the most sustainable of these, and a great overall choice for eco-friendly fabric—again, depending on production practices.

Lenzing’s TENCEL lyocell is the top choice. Their production of lyocell uses less toxic chemicals that are recirculated in a closed loop system. 99% of solvents do not leave the facility, in turn eliminating environmental pollution. Clothing can also be recycled to create new lyocell fiber.

To summarize, modal and lyocell are the generic names; TENCEL is the brand name for these fabrics produced by Lenzing. Find companies that utilize TENCEL sustainable fabrics in their products in this brand directory.

---

Synthetic Fibers

Nearly all synthetic fibers are fossil fuel-based and therefore not biodegradeable, taking up to 200 years to decompose. A natural fiber such as cotton is made of cellulose, and biodegrades in wastewater, saltwater, and freshwater, and does not contribute to microplastic pollution. In a recent study conducted by Cotton Incorporated, a 100% polyester sample saw minimal deterioration, while a 100% cotton sample had disintegrated 76% in wastewater in 250 days. By comparison, rayon disintegrated 60% in the same conditions and timeframe, and polyester disintegrated only 4%.

Synthetic fibers leave behind microplastics and leach chemicals into soil and water sources. This is especially unfortunate as 69% of today’s clothing is composed of man-made materials, the majority of that being polyester. Overall, the production of these fabrics uses more energy and produces more emissions than the processing of natural fibers. Substantial amounts of chemicals are required in the manufacturing process, resulting in the emission of toxic pollutants throughout their lifetime.

When it comes to synthetic fabrics, it really all comes down to one thing: avoid them whenever possible. These fabrics are fossil fuel-based and are simply a type of plastic, based on non-renewable petrochemicals that are not biodegradeable. Their production requires more energy and produces considerably higher greenhouse gas emissions. Significant amounts of chemicals are used during the manufacturing process, including synthetic dyes, since natural dyes are not effective on synthetic fibers. This results in these products emitting toxic polluntants throughout every phase of their life cycle.

Synthetic fabrics use less water to produce than their natural fiber counterparts, but this benefit is negated by the significant contribution to the world’s microplastic problem.

Laundering synthetic fabrics has a much more significant environmental impact that you probably realized. With every load, an average of 700,000 tiny plastic microfibers are released into the water. These particles are too small to be filtered out through waste water treatment plants. It is estimated that up to 35% of microplastics in the ocean and 71% of microplastics in rivers come from synthetic clothing. In your own home, textile microplastics compose 33% of the dust floating around.

The fact that these materials are cheap to produce lends to their wide use and popularity despite the environmental implications. Continuing to use these materials also perpetuates dependence on fossil fuels.

Despite the number of resources required by natural fibers, my research has led me to conclude that these renewable materials are the superior choice given the serious, long-lasting negatives of synthetic materials. In addition, natural fibers generally contain less chemicals than those that are man-made.

Read more about plastics here.

---

Polyester

Polyester is the most widely used fiber in the world, with a market share of 54% of global fiber production in 2021. It accounts for 80% of all synthetic fibers used.

As with any all synthetics, polyester production is a high energy, high polluting process. One study reported that 112 MJ of energy is required to manufacture 1 kg of polyester, about double that of cotton. Polyester production emits VOCs, and one study found that it gives off nearly three times more carbon dioxide than cotton.

Many companies have started making fabrics from recycled polyester, which primarily comes from PET plastic bottles. While preferred over virgin material, it certainly doesn’t address the ultimate end of life issue of these non-biodegradable materials.

Nylon (Polyamide)

The production of nylon creates nitrous oxide, a significant greenhouse gas. At the end of its life cycle, nylon is very difficult to recycle and if burned, emits poisonous gases such as dioxins, nitrous oxide and hydrogen cyanide.

Elastane (Spandex)

Elastane is made from polyurethane, a type of plastic and known carcinogenic. You may also know this by one its brand names, Lycra. We are all familiar with this stretchy fabric, from workout wear to the added stretch to denim and other fabrics. It is rarely used alone, as it is usually mixed with other types of fibers to add its stretchy quality.

Acrylic

Due to its warmth and wool-like feel, acrylic is generally chosen as a cheap alternative for cashmere wool. Unless a sweater is made from 100% wool, it almost assuredly has acrylic blended into the material. This fiber is made from acrylonitrile, a chemical rated as a probable carcinogen by the EPA. Toxic fumes are emitted during its production process.

Acrylic fibers are one of the major contributors of microplastics in the marine environment. According to a study, acrylic fabrics washed in domestic washing machines released nearly 730,000 tiny synthetic particles per wash, which, via the sewage network, reached the sea, five times more than polyester–cotton blend fabric, and nearly 1.5 times as many as polyester.

One group of scientists found acrylic to be the worst fiber in terms of environmental impact and ecological sustainability.

Fabric Production

When the United States shifted manufacturing overseas, we also “outsourced” the associated pollution and greenhouses gases produced by this manufacturing to countries where there are few pollution controls. Manufacturing practices in less-developed countries are generally less efficient than in the developed world. That means they waste money by using more energy, water, and materials than necessary. By improving the efficiency in the manufacturing processes, there are plenty of opportunities to both save money and improve the environment.

Weaving

Environmental concerns related to weaving are greater than those arising from knitting owing to the increase in the number of processes and machines involved. A variety of weaving machines are currently available, each with its unique processing methodology, energy needs and environmental impacts.

Many of the words you see used to describe textile products are actually referring to the type of weave used to construct the fabric. This can be confusing, as a type of weave does not indicate what material is used. Two items made from the same weave type can be made of completely different types of fibers, or a blend of more than one. For example, chiffon is a type of weave; a chiffon dress might be made of natural fibers such as cotton or silk, or synthetic fibers like nylon or polyester.

I didn’t know much about this before my research, so I find it helpful to understand the difference. I’ve also noticed that when shopping online, many times ‘material’ filter options actually include a mix of actual materials along with weaves, which adds to the confusion.

There are three main types of weave used for fabrics.

1. Plain weave

• Canvas
• Chambray
• Chiffon
• Crêpe
• Flannel
• Georgette
• Muslin
• Organdy
• Organza
• Percale
• Poplin
• Taffeta
• Velvet

2. Twill

Twill is characterized by its diagonal weave. These weaves have a distinct front side, which is often darker colored, with a lighter back. Twill has high thread count, which means that the fabric is opaque, thick, and durable. It doesn’t wrinkle easily and hides stains well.

• Chino
• Denim
• Gabardine–cotton, wool
• Tweed
• Houndstooth
• Herringbone

3. Satin

Satin is has a shiny surface on one side, with a duller surface on the other. This fabric drapes, is wrinkle resistant, and snags easily. Originally, satin was made using silk, but today’s satin is often made from polyester and rayon.

Complex weaves

• Brocade
• Corduroy cotton
• Jacquard
• Gauze
• Velveteen

Knit Fabrics

Knitting is a relatively simple process that uses a single machine to convert the yarn to grey fabric. There is a scarcity of data on life cycle assessment studies for the knitting sector and for the hot spots within the process.

• French Terry – cotton. Think comfort—sweats and other loungewear.
• fleece–polyester or cotton;
• jersey
• chenille
• Sherpa–real sherpa is made from sheepskin

faux fur — blend of polyester, modacrylic, and acrylic fibers.

seagrass/hyacinth, sisal, jute

Something that contributes to the sustainability of handloom weaving is the fact that no electricity is needed to operate it. This has obvious positive results for the environment. It causes a great deal less strain and requires less resources than powerlooms. While the process is slower, the minimums are lower so it’s easier to produce only what you need and have less waste at the end of a season. 

Dyeing

Synthetic fibers can be difficult to dye, so manufacturers use synthetic dyes to permeate the fibers. The good thing about synthetic dyes is that they are very stable in light and high temperatures and can resist even environmental degradation. This is, however, also what makes them bad for the environment.

Synthetic dyes have been found in water, underwater sediment, and even the fish themselves. Being widely used, it comes as no surprise that they have found their way not only to aquatic environments but also into the soil. Researchers believe the toxicity and pharmacological tendencies of these substances are cause for concern.

Finishing

The goal of the finishing process is to protect fabrics from natural processes as well as to give them performance characteristics they normally don’t possess, such as the ability to repel water.

All natural fibers are susceptible to microbial decomposition by organisms like bacteria, fungi, mold, and mildew.

mechanical and chemical processes employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product. Finishing processes include preparatory treatments used before additional treatment, such as bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, such as glazing, to enhance appearance; sizing, affecting touch; and treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Newly formed cloth is generally dirty, harsh, and unattractive, requiring considerable skill for conversion into a desirable product.

processes like bleaching, softening, water or fireproofing, antibacterial and antifugal finishes, brushing like cotton antimicrobials, flame retardants, stain resistant chemicals

Also be on alert for greenwashing. Many products today may profess to be “eco-friendly” or “sustainable,” but with little substantiating evidence. For instance, says Find Osther of Kvadrat, many fabrics will claim to be made from “recycled” content, but will actually contain negligible amounts. And, she says, many so-called “natural” dyes require more chemicals than artificial ones. 

A 2022 Toxic-Free Future study tested outdoor apparel, bedding, tablecloths and napkins from 10 major retailers and found that 72% of products marketed as stain- or water-resistant contained PFAS. In contrast, all of the items that weren’t marketed as stain- or water-resistant were PFAS-free.

Labor Practices

Conclusion

Following the supply chain of any one product is difficult, and textiles are no exception. As consumers we can only do our best and find companies and brands we trust. As I’ve shopped for new clothing, I have found just how hard it is to steer away from synthetic fabrics. I am a picky shopper anyway, and it’s so disheartening to find something I really like only to check the tag and discover it is made from polyester.

No matter which fabrics you use, it’s important that they go into some kind of recycling system at the end of their life. That means not tossing the rugs and curtains from your latest reno project into the dumpster, but taking the time to deposit them at a local textile recycling center or drop-off site. Even if the fabric can’t be recycled, it has the potential to be shredded for use in industrial rags, insulation, and shoddy, a mixed-fabric material that can be used for stuffing.

unsustainable fabrics

Prioritize Quality and Durability

You may be sourcing what is billed as some of the most sustainable fabric on the planet, but it doesn’t make a lick of difference if, in a few year’s time, it fades, pills, or tears. “I often say, the first and best thing you can do is to choose a long-lasting material,” says Find Osther, “because to replace the material, of course, you use more time and material to do it.”

Read the labels on your clothing and other textiles and make sure you follow the instructions and care for them accordingly to prolong their life. Learn more about how to take care of your clothing and other textiles here.

Any recycled of any material is a greener choice

Refrain from compulsive shopping and buy only what you really need, shop second-hand and buy for maximum durability, and seek to repair, reuse and swap items
where possible.